3x1 Custom Made + Bespoke Jeans
3x1's Custom Made Jeans and Bespoke Denim program is renowned globally, an unparalleled luxury service providing an exclusive community of influential women and men with the ultimate luxury jean. Handmade, fitted and designed just for you, crafted in the 15 Mercer St. atelier, SoHo, NYC.
- The Basics | First things first, let’s find your fit. Not all jeans are created equal and finding a great pair starts with figuring out which fit is for you. We will walk you through a number of signature 3x1 fits, to see what makes the most sense for you, your style, and your frame. Typically, we find that most men fit one of three core fits, the M3, M4 or M5. The M3 is our best-selling regular rise, slim straight leg. This jean is an updated classic and fits most men from short to tall, thin to stocky. The M4 is a lower rise, classic straight leg. Its cut a bit more relaxed through the thigh, knee and leg opening, so if you’re looking for comfort this might be a great place to start. The M5 is also a low rise, but it’s decidedly slimmer through the thigh, knee, and tapered at the leg opening. This is our slimmest fit and works well on many guys. We also grade the larger sizes to be more accommodating for bigger guys, so it’s worth a look. On the women's side (yes, women love our Custom Made and Bespoke program too) we will determine the ideal fit for your form by first walking you through our full assortment of core styles which range from skinny (Channel Seam) and straight leg (Straight Authentic) jeans to cropped boot cuts (Crop Boot) and boyfriend (Higher Ground) styles. Once we determine the right rise and overall fit we will be able to hone in on what will best suit your figure.
- Fitting | Our Denim Atelier Specialists will walk you through our unique fitting process, which is a combination of specific body measurements and an in-house try on with some of our existing ready-to-wear denim styles. Some people might be intimidated by the process of selecting their jeans or understanding the nuance of how a jean and the denim might evolve over time. We’ve found that it’s great to be able to get you into a pair of jeans to talk about what you like and dislike as a starting point. Getting you to understand how things will wear over time is all a part of the process. Fear not.
- Denims | Once we determine your ideal fit, we move over to the ‘Denim Wall’ which houses some 70+ selvedge denims. The denim wall is in constant rotation, with denims changing weekly. Our Custom Made and Bespoke Atelier specialists will help you sift through the options which range from lightweight to heavy, stretch to non-stretch, clean or dressy to authentic and workwear inspired. Among our many specialized denims, you’ll find a number of exclusive denims, many of which utilize some of the world’s most unique fibers (Supima, Suvin, Dynema, Kevlar, Silk, Tencil, Refibra, etc.). Since we opened the atelier in 2011, more than 1000 different denims have been cut and sewn into jeans, making 3x1 the destination of the largest selection of selvedge denim in the world. Our list of mill suppliers is second to none: Kuroki, Collect, Kurabo, Cone White Oak, Berto, Isko, Orta, Candiani, Kaihara, Nehon Menpu, Dova, Rainbow, and the list goes on.
- Understanding the Details | The making of a 3x1 jean is truly a labor of love. Every pair of 3x1 Custom Made and Bespoke jeans are made in our 15 Mercer Street atelier. It takes 4 hours to make a jean, each of our sewers can make just 2 pairs of 3x1’s per day which means that less than 1000 pairs are sewn each year. Each sewer is responsible for sewing just one jean at a time, from start to finish. 100% of each jean is sewn using Juki (Japan) single needle machines, sewn at an average of 15 stitches per inch (SPI). Using a single needle machine is both challenging and time-consuming as most operations must be duplicated since there are two rows of stitching throughout most of your jeans. That being said, the higher SPI and the single needle construction make for a more beautiful, handmade product. All pattern pieces are hand spread and cut. There is no automation to our Custom Made or Bespoke denim process with the exception of printing your pattern. Pockets are carefully measured, pressed, aligned and sewn into the exact placement, while belt loops are set by hand, buttons and trims individually marked and pressed into place. For those customers whom we see repeatedly, your personalized woven label sits next to our signature 3x1 ‘1 of 1’ label which designates it as a Custom Made or Bespoke pair of jeans made at our 15 Mercer Street atelier.
- Selecting Your Denim and Details | Picking a denim can be a difficult task as there are countless options to select from but we’re here to make it easy, from the big decisions, such as stretch or non-stretch, to the small details, we will guide you in your quest for your perfect jeans. These items include: coin pockets, belt loops, back pockets, thread color, interior pocketing material, buttons, rivets, and fly type (zipper or button).
- What is the difference between the Custom Made and Bespoke?
The main difference between our Custom Made service and our Bespoke service is the pattern itself. With a Custom Made jean you’re selecting a pre-existing fit (which has an existing pattern). Once you pick your fit, we will make that jean to order, which is to say you select the materials, details, and trims, and we make you a Custom Made jean. With our Bespoke service we start from scratch. A Bespoke jean is made to your specification, to your desired measurements and taste. We will create an entirely unique fit for you, so we will be making a completely unique pattern for you using our Gerber AccuMark system. This system allows us to make changes to your unique pattern when adjusting for new fabrics, washes, or in the event that you need to go up or down a size and allows us to make new orders for you without requiring you to come in for an initial fitting/consultation. Note: we always encourage you to come in to pick up your jean in person, so we can fine-tune any desired changes, etc.
- How much does it cost?
The price for Custom Made jean starts at $525, and typically ranges between $625-$750 depending on the fabric and materials you select. For the Bespoke service, it is a one-time cost of $1,500. All additional jeans using your personal pattern are charged at the Custom Made rate and typically range between $625-750 depending on the fabric and materials you select.
- Is it just jeans? What type of things can I make?
We typically make jeans, which is to say denim, twill, and corduroy pants in a five-pocket construction of some sort, but we’ve made a number of things most people wouldn’t expect, including: denim suits, multiple styles of jackets, blazers and coats, trousers, shirts, t-shirts, karate pants, aprons, bags, backpacks, kimonos, pillow cases, furniture coverings, wall murals, and even a few surf board bags.
- How long does the Custom Made process take?
To sew one pair of jeans typically takes 4 hours. Of course, there’s more to it than just the sewing, including pattern making, technical design, spreading and cutting, wash (in many cases) and finishing. We schedule 2-3 weeks of time to make a Custom Made jean. There are instances wherein clients aren’t able to wait that long, and certainly, exceptions can be made. Often times we are able to accelerate the schedule and typically ‘Rush’ charges are incurred.
- How long does the Bespoke process take?
The Bespoke process is considerably longer, as it requires a series of fittings (usually 2-3 fittings) as well as extensive pattern work in between each fitting. We usually have the first prototype ready to fit within 3 weeks of your order, and subsequent fittings are typically scheduled 2-3 weeks after the date of your latest fitting. Our expectation is that you have your approved Bespoke jeans as early as 8-10 weeks from your date of order, but your availability is also a factor. What we do know from the past seven years of making the world’s finest bespoke jeans, is that the process is not intended to be rushed, and regrettably, there is no way to shorten the number of fittings required. In some cases, we are able to accommodate an accelerated schedule, but it’s on a case by case basis and ‘Rush’ charges will typically be incurred in the event that we’re able to make an accommodation.
- Do I have to come to the atelier/shop?
We do have a ‘Fit at Home’ or ‘Fit in Office’ capability. Please reach out to our Atelier Director Patrick Gorny at firstname.lastname@example.org for more information. You can also call the atelier and speak to one of our Bespoke Directors at 212-391-6969.
- What about repairs?
We stand by the quality of our jeans, and they should provide years of enjoyment and incredible wear. As such, we encourage you to come in whenever you start to see the first signs of wear and tear. Wear and tear is natural and to be expected, especially if you’re enjoying your jeans as much as we expect. We’ll be happy to take a look and tackle any mending that needs to be done. We also like to photograph the most beautiful fades and wear patterns, so there’s a chance your jean might be featured in the Atelier Journal. As we’ve always said, ‘sustainability starts with buying products which are made to last, and then treating them with a lifetime of care.’
Photography by Elena Mudd
Interested in something extra special? Shop our limited edition products all made in the 15 Mercer St. Atelier, SoHo, NYC.